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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.